A scattering of round-brilliant cut diamonds shows
off the many reflecting facets.
Diamond is one of the two best known forms (or allotropes) of
carbon, whose hardness and high dispersion of light makes it useful for
industrial applications and jewelry (the other equally well known allotrope is
graphite). Diamonds are specifically renowned as a mineral with superlative
physical qualities - they make excellent abrasives because they can only be
scratched by other diamonds, which also means they hold a polish extremely well
and retain luster. About 130 million carats (26,000 kg) are mined annually, with
a total value of nearly USD $9 billion.
The name "diamond" derives from the ancient Greek adamas
(αδάμας; "impossible to tame"). They have been treasured as gems
since their use as religious icons in India at least 2,500 years
ago—and usage in drill bits and engraving tools also dates to
early human history. Popularity of diamonds has risen since the
19th century because of improved cutting and polishing
techniques, and they are commonly judged by the "four Cs":
carat, clarity, color, and cut.
Although nearly four times the mass of natural diamonds are
produced as synthetic diamond each year, the vast majority of
synthetic diamond production remains small, imperfect diamonds
suitable only for industrial-grade use, with gem-quality
synthetic diamonds only recently becoming available.
Most natural diamonds originate from central and southern
Africa, although significant sources of the mineral have been
discovered in Canada, Russia, Brazil, and Australia. They are
generally mined from volcanic pipes, which are deep in the Earth
where the high pressure and temperature enables the formation of
the crystals. The mining and distribution of natural diamonds
are subjects of frequent controversy—such as with concerns over
the sale of conflict diamonds by African paramilitary
groups. There are also allegations that the De Beers Group
misuses its dominance in the industry to control supply and
manipulate price via monopolistic practices.
Material properties
The unit cell of the diamond crystal.
Main article
See also: Crystallographic defects in diamond
Diamond is a transparent crystal of pure carbon consisting of
tetrahedrally bonded carbon atoms. Humans have been able to
adapt diamonds for many uses because of the material's
exceptional physical characteristics. Most notable among these
properties are the extreme hardness of diamond, its high
dispersion index, and high thermal conductivity. These
properties form the basis for most modern applications of
diamond.
Mechanical properties
Crystal structure
Diamonds typically crystallize in the cubic crystal system
and consist of tetrahedrally bonded carbon atoms. Lonsdaleite is
a polymorph of diamond (and a distinct mineral species) that
crystallizes with hexagonal symmetry; it is rarely found in
nature, but is characteristic of synthetic diamonds. A
cryptocrystalline variety of diamond is called carbonado. A
colorless, grey or black diamond with a tiny radial structure is
a spherulite.
The tetrahedral arrangement of atoms in a diamond crystal is
the source of many of diamond's properties; graphite, another
allotrope of carbon, has a rhombohedral crystal structure and as
a result shows dramatically different physical
characteristics—contrary to diamond, graphite is a very soft,
dark grey, opaque mineral.
Hardness
The diamond crystal bond structure gives the gem
its hardness and differentiates it from graphite.
Diamond is the hardest known naturally occurring material,
scoring 10 on the relative Mohs scale of mineral hardness and
having an absolute hardness value of between 167 and 231
gigapascals in various tests. Diamond's hardness has been known
since antiquity, and is the source of its name. However,
aggregated diamond nanorods, an allotrope of carbon first
synthesized in 2005, are now believed to be even harder than
diamond.
Industrial use of diamonds has historically been associated
with their hardness; this property makes diamond the ideal
material for cutting and grinding tools. It is one of the most
known and most useful of more than 3,000 known minerals. As the
hardest known naturally occurring material, diamond can be used
to polish, cut, or wear away any material, including other
diamonds. Common industrial adaptations of this ability include
diamond-tipped drill bits and saws, or use of diamond powder as
an abrasive. Other specialized applications also exist or are
being developed, including use as semiconductors: some blue
diamonds are natural semiconductors, in contrast to most other
diamonds, which are excellent electrical insulators.
Industrial-grade diamonds are either unsuitable for use as gems
or synthetically produced, which lowers their price and makes
their use economically feasible. Industrial applications,
especially as drill bits and engraving tools, also date to
ancient times.
The hardness of diamonds also contributes to its suitability
as a gemstone. Because it can only be scratched by other
diamonds, it maintains its polish extremely well, keeping its
luster over long periods of time. Unlike many other gems, it is
well-suited to daily wear because of its resistance to
scratching—perhaps contributing to its popularity as the
preferred gem in an engagement ring or wedding ring, which are
often worn everyday.
Toughness
Unlike hardness, which only denotes resistance to scratching,
diamond's toughness is only fair to good. Toughness relates to a
material's ability to resist breakage from forceful impact. As
with any material, the macroscopic geometry of a diamond
contributes to its resistance to breakage. Diamonds cut into
certain particular shapes are therefore more prone to breakage
than others.
Color
Diamonds occur in a variety of transparent hues — colorless,
white, steel, blue, yellow, orange, red, green, pink, brown—or
colored black. Diamonds with a detectable hue to them are known
as colored diamonds. Colored diamonds contain impurities or
structural defects that cause the coloration, while pure or
nearly pure diamonds are transparent and colorless. Most diamond
impurities replace a carbon atom in the crystal lattice. The
most common impurity, nitrogen, causes a yellowish or brownish
tinge.
Thermodynamic stability
At surface air pressure (one atmosphere), diamonds are not as
stable as graphite, and so the decay of diamond is
thermodynamically favorable (ΔG = −2.99 kJ / mol). Diamonds will
burn at approximately 800 degrees Celsius, providing that enough
oxygen is available. This was shown in the late 18th century,
and previously described during Roman times. So, despite the
popular advertising slogan, diamonds are not forever. However,
owing to a very large kinetic energy barrier, diamonds are
metastable; under normal conditions, it would take an extremely
long time (possibly more than the age of the Universe) for
diamond to decay into graphite.
Electromagnetic properties
Diamonds exhibit high dispersion of visible light.
Optical properties
Diamonds exhibit a high dispersion of visible light. This
strong ability to split white light into its component colors is
an important aspect of diamond's attraction as a gemstone,
giving it impressive prismatic action that results in so-called
fire in a well-cut stone. The luster of a diamond, a
characterization of how light interacts with the surface of a
crystal, is brilliant and is described as adamantine, which
simply means diamond-like. This is owed to their high refractive
index of 2.417 (at 589.3 nm), which causes total internal
reflection to occur. Some diamonds exhibit fluorescence of
various colors under long wave ultraviolet light, but generally
show bluish-white, yellowish or greenish fluorescence under
X-rays. Some diamonds show no fluorescence.
Electrical properties
Except for most blue diamonds which are semiconductors,
diamond is a good electrical insulator. Blue diamonds owe their
semiconductive property to boron impurities, which act as a
doping agent and cause p-type semiconductor behavior. Blue
diamonds which are not boron-doped, such as those recently
recovered from the Argyle diamond mine in Australia that owe
their color to an overabundance of hydrogen atoms, are not
semiconductors.
Thermal properties
Unlike most electrical insulators, diamond is a good
conductor of heat because of the strong covalent bonding within
the crystal. Most natural blue diamonds contain boron atoms
which replace carbon atoms in the crystal matrix, and also have
high thermal conductivity. Specially purified synthetic diamond
has the highest thermal conductivity (2000–2500 W/(m·K), five
times more than copper) of any known solid at room temperature.
Because diamond has such high thermal conductance it is already
used in semiconductor manufacture to prevent silicon and other
semiconducting materials from overheating.
Media
Diamond, Cubic-F lattice, with a motif of C (0,0,0)
and C (1/4,1/4,1/4).
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Animation of a rotating diamond structure (0:12,
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animation (info) |
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Stereogram of a rotating diamond structure
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Natural history
Formation
Diamond is formed by prolonged exposure of carbon bearing
materials to high pressure and temperature. On Earth, the
formation of diamonds is possible because there are regions deep
within the Earth that are at a high enough pressure and
temperature that the formation of diamonds is thermodynamically
favorable (see the diamond phase diagram and geotherms here).
Under continental crust, diamonds form starting at depths of
about 150 kilometers (90 miles), where pressure is roughly 5
gigapascals and the temperature is around 1200 degrees Celsius
(2200 degrees Fahrenheit). Diamond formation under oceanic crust
takes place at greater depths because of higher temperatures,
which require higher pressure for diamond formation. Long
periods of exposure to these high pressures and temperatures
allow diamond crystals to grow larger.
The slightly misshapen octahedral shape of this
rough diamond crystal in matrix is typical of the
mineral. Its lustrous faces also indicate that this
crystal is from a primary deposit.
Through studies of carbon isotope ratios (similar to the
methodology used in carbon dating) except using the stable
isotopes C-12 and C-13, it has been shown that the carbon found
in diamonds comes from both inorganic and organic sources. Some
diamonds, known as harzburgitic, are formed from inorganic
carbon originally found deep in the Earth's mantle. In contrast,
eclogitic diamonds contain organic carbon from organic detritus
that has been pushed down from the surface of the Earth's crust
through subduction (see plate tectonics) before transforming
into diamond. These two different source carbons have measurably
different 13C:12C ratios. Diamonds that
have come to the Earth's surface are generally very old, ranging
from under 1 billion to 3.3 billion years old.
Diamonds occur most often as euhedral or rounded octahedra
and twinned octahedra known as macles. As diamond's crystal
structure has a cubic arrangement of the atoms, they have many
facets that belong to a cube, octahedron,
rhombicosidodecahedron, tetrakis hexahedron or disdyakis
dodecahedron. The crystals can have rounded off and unexpressive
edges and can be elongated. Sometimes they are found grown
together or form double "twinned" crystals grown together at the
surfaces of the octahedron. This is all due to the conditions in
which they form. Diamonds (especially those from secondary
deposits) are commonly found coated in nyf, an opaque gum-like
skin.
Diamonds can also form in other natural high-pressure,
high-temperature events. Very small diamonds, known as
microdiamonds or nanodiamonds, have been found in impact craters
where meteors strike the Earth and create shock zones of high
pressure and temperature where diamond formation can occur.
Microdiamonds are now used as one indicator of ancient meteorite
impact sites.
Surfacing
Schematic diagram of a volcanic pipe
Diamond-bearing rock is forced close to the surface through
deep-origin volcanic eruptions. The magma for such a volcano
must originate at a depth where diamonds can be formed, 90 miles
(150 km) deep or more (three times or more the depth of source
magma for most volcanoes); this is a relatively rare occurrence.
Below these typically small surface volcanic craters are
formations known as volcanic pipes, which contain material that
was pushed toward the surface of the earth by volcanic action,
but did not erupt before the volcanic activity ceased.
Diamond-bearing volcanic pipes are most commonly found in the
oldest regions of continental crust, which relates to the fact
that these areas are the coolest portions of the earth's crust,
and therefore diamonds can form at the shallowest depths.
The magma in such volcanic pipes is usually one of two
characteristic types, which cool into igneous rock known as
either kimberlite or lamproite. The magma itself does not
contain diamond; instead, it acts as an elevator that carries
deep-formed rocks and material upward. These rocks are
characteristically rich in magnesium bearing olivine, pyroxene,
and amphibole minerals which are usually altered to serpentine
under near surface conditions. Certain indicator minerals
typically occur within diamondiferous kimberlites and are used
as mineralogic tracers in the search for diamond deposits by
prospectors. These minerals are rich in chromium (Cr) or
titanium (Ti), elements which impart bright colors to the
minerals. The most common indicator minerals are chromian
garnets (usually bright red Cr-pyrope, and occasionally green
ugrandite-series garnets), eclogitic garnets, orange Ti-pyrope,
red high chromian spinels, dark chromite, bright green Cr-diopside,
glassy green olivine, black picroilmenite, and magnetite.
Kimberlite deposits are known as blue ground for the deeper
serpentinized part of the deposits, or as yellow ground for the
near surface smectite clay and carbonate weathered and oxidized
portion.
Once diamonds have been forced to the surface by magma in a
volcanic pipe, they may erode out and be distributed over a
large area. A volcanic pipe containing diamonds is known as a
primary source of diamonds. Secondary sources of diamonds
include all areas where a significant number of diamonds, eroded
out of their kimberlite or lamproite matrix, accumulate because
of water or weather action. These include alluvial deposits and
deposits along existing and ancient shorelines, where loose
diamonds tend to accumulate because of their approximate size
and density. Diamonds have also rarely been found in deposits
left behind by glaciers (notably in Wisconsin and Indiana);
however, in contrast to alluvial deposits, glacial deposits are
not known to be of significant concentration and are therefore
not viable commercial sources of diamond.
Diamonds can also be brought to the surface through certain
processes which may occur when two continental plates collide
forcefully, although this phenomenon is less understood and
currently assumed to be uncommon.
Gemological characteristics
The use of diamonds as gemstones of decorative value is the
most familiar use to most people today, and is also the earliest
use, with decorative use of diamonds stretching back into
antiquity. The dispersion of white light into a rainbow of
colors, known in the trade as fire, is the other primary
characteristic of gem diamonds, and has been highly prized
throughout history. Over time, especially since around 1900,
experts in the field of gemology have developed methods of
characterizing diamonds and other gemstones based on the
characteristics most important to their value as a gem. Four
characteristics, known informally as the four Cs, are now
commonly used as the basic descriptors of diamonds: these are
carat, clarity, color, and cut.
Most gem diamonds are traded on the wholesale market based on
single values for each of the four Cs; for example knowing that
a diamond is rated as 1.5 carats, VS2 clarity, F color,
excellent cut, is enough to reasonably establish an expected
price range. More detailed information from within each
characteristic can then be used to determine actual market value
for individual stones. Consumers who purchase individual
diamonds are often advised to use the four Cs to pick the
diamond that is "right" for them; to these is sometimes added
the "fifth C" of cost.
Other characteristics not described by the four Cs can and do
influence the value or appearance of a gem diamond. These
characteristics include physical characteristics such as the
presence of fluorescence, as well as data on a diamond's history
including its source and which gemological institute performed
evaluation services on the diamond. Cleanliness also
dramatically affects a diamond's beauty.
There are four major gemological associations which "certify"
diamonds: that is, define the four Cs of a diamond. While carat
weight and cut angles are mathematically defined, the clarity
and color are judged by the trained human eye and are therefore
open to slight variance in interpretation.
- Gemological Institute of America (GIA) was the first
laboratory to issue modern diamond reports, and holds the
highest reputation amongst gemologists for its consistent,
conservative grading.
- American Gemological Society (AGS) is not as widely
recognized nor as old as the GIA, but garners an equally
high reputation.
- International Gemological Laboratory (IGL) is a
generally respected laboratory but suffers from a negative
industry reputation for its grading practices, which are
perceived by critics as being either less conservative or
less consistent than the GIA and AGS.
- European Gemological Laboratory (EGI) has a similar
reputation to the IGL.
Carat
The carat weight measures the mass of a diamond. One carat is
defined as exactly 200 milligrams (about 0.007 ounce). The point
unit—equal to one one-hundredth of a carat (0.01 carat, or 2
mg)—is commonly used for diamonds of less than one carat. All
else being equal, the value of a diamond increases exponentially
in relation to carat weight, since larger diamonds are both
rarer and more desirable for use as gemstones. A review of
comparable diamonds available for purchase in September 2005
demonstrates this effect (approximate prices for round cut, G
color, VS2 diamonds with "1A" cut grade, as listed on http://www.pricescope.com):
| Carat size |
Cost per carat (US$) |
Total cost (US$) |
| 0.5 carat (50 points) |
3,000 |
1,500 |
| 1.0 carat |
6,500 |
6,500 |
| 1.5 carats |
8,500 |
12,750 |
| 2.0 carats |
13,000 |
26,000 |
| 3.0 carats |
17,000 |
51,000 |
| 5.0 carats |
23,000 |
115,000 |
The price per carat does not increase smoothly with
increasing size. Instead, there are sharp jumps around milestone
carat weights, as demand is much higher for diamonds weighing
just more than a milestone than for those weighing just less. As
an example, a 0.95 carat diamond may have a significantly lower
price per carat than a comparable 1.05 carat diamond, because of
differences in demand.
A weekly price list published by Rapaport of New York, of
diamond prices per carat, for different diamond cuts, clarity
and weights, is currently considered the de-facto retail price
baseline. Jewelers often trade diamonds at negotiated discounts
off the Rapaport price (e.g., "R -3%").
In the wholesale trade of gem diamonds, carat is often used
in denominating lots of diamonds for sale. For example, a buyer
may place an order for 100 carats of 0.5 carat, D–F, VS2-SI1,
excellent cut diamonds, indicating he wishes to purchase 200
diamonds (100 carats total mass) of those approximate
characteristics. Because of this, diamond prices (particularly
among wholesalers and other industry professionals) are often
quoted per carat, rather than per stone.
Total carat weight (t.c.w.) is a phrase used to describe the
total mass of diamonds or other gemstone in a piece of jewelry,
when more than one gemstone is used. Diamond solitaire earrings,
for example, are usually quoted in t.c.w. when placed for sale,
indicating the mass of the diamonds in both earrings and not
each individual diamond. T.c.w. is also widely used for diamond
necklaces, bracelets and other similar jewelry pieces.
Clarity
Main article Clarity is a measure of internal defects of a
diamond called inclusions. Inclusions may be crystals of a
foreign material or another diamond crystal, or structural
imperfections such as tiny cracks that can appear whitish or
cloudy. The number, size, color, relative location, orientation,
and visibility of inclusions can all affect the relative clarity
of a diamond. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and
others have developed systems to grade clarity, which are
generally based on those inclusions which are visible to a
trained professional when a diamond is viewed from above under
10x magnification.
Diamonds become increasingly rare when considering higher
clarity gradings. Only about 20 percent of all diamonds mined
have a clarity rating high enough for the diamond to be
considered appropriate for use as a gemstone; the other 80
percent are relegated to industrial use. Of that top 20 percent,
a significant portion contains an inclusion or inclusions that
are visible to the naked eye upon close inspection. Those that
do not have a visible inclusion are known as "eye-clean" and are
preferred by most buyers, although visible inclusions can
sometimes be hidden under the setting in a piece of jewelry.
Most inclusions present in gem-quality diamonds do not affect
the diamonds' performance or structural integrity. However,
large clouds can affect a diamond's ability to transmit and
scatter light. Large cracks close to or breaking the surface may
reduce a diamond's resistance to fracture.
Diamonds are graded by the major societies on a scale ranging
from Flawless to Imperfect. (see the main article for more
detail)
Color
Main article
Jewelers sometimes set diamonds in groups of
similar colors.
A chemically pure and structurally perfect diamond is
perfectly transparent with no hue, or color. However, in
reality almost no gem-sized natural diamonds are absolutely
perfect. The color of a diamond may be affected by chemical
impurities and/or structural defects in the crystal lattice.
Depending on the hue and intensity of a diamond's coloration, a
diamond's color can either detract from or enhance its value.
For example, most white diamonds are discounted in price as more
yellow hue is detectable, while intense pink or blue diamonds
(such as the Hope Diamond) can be dramatically more valuable.
Most diamonds used as gemstones are basically transparent
with little tint, or white diamonds. The most common impurity,
nitrogen, replaces a small proportion of carbon atoms in a
diamond's structure and causes a yellowish to brownish tint.
This effect is present in almost all white diamonds; in only the
rarest diamonds is the coloration due to this effect
undetectable. The GIA has developed a rating system for color in
white diamonds, from "D" to "Z" (with D being "colorless" and Z
having a bright yellow coloration), which has been widely
adopted in the industry and is universally recognized,
superseding several older systems once used in different
countries. The system uses a benchmark set of either natural
diamonds of known color grade, or precision-crafted cubic
zirconia; test lighting conditions are also standardized and
carefully controlled. Diamonds with higher color grades are
rarer, in higher demand, and therefore more expensive, than
lower color grades. Oddly enough, diamonds graded Z are also
rare, and the bright yellow color is also highly valued.
Diamonds graded D-F are considered "colorless", G-J are
considered "near-colorless", K-M are "slightly colored". N-Y are
usually appear light yellow or brown.
In contrast to yellow or brown hues, diamonds of other colors
are much rarer and more valuable. While even a pale pink or blue
hue may increase the value of a diamond, more intense coloration
is usually considered more desirable and commands the highest
prices. A variety of impurities and structural imperfections
cause different colors in diamonds, including yellow, pink,
blue, red, green, brown, and other hues. Diamonds with unusual
or intense coloration are sometimes labeled "fancy" by the
diamond industry. Intense yellow coloration is considered one of
the fancy colors, and is separate from the color grades of white
diamonds. Gemologists have developed rating systems for fancy
colored diamonds, but they are not in common use because of the
relative rarity of colored diamonds.
Cut
Main article Diamond cutting is the art and science of
creating a gem-quality diamond out of mined rough. The cut of a
diamond describes the manner in which a diamond has been shaped
and polished from its beginning form as a rough stone to its
final gem proportions. The cut of a diamond describes the
quality of workmanship and the angles to which a diamond is cut.
Often diamond cut is confused with "shape."
There are mathematical guidelines for the angles and length
ratios at which the diamond is supposed to cut at in order to
reflect the maximum amount of light. Round brilliant diamonds,
the most common, are guided by these specific guidelines, though
fancy cut stones are not able to be as accurately guided by
mathematical specifics.
The techniques for cutting diamonds have been developed over
hundreds of years, with perhaps the greatest achievements made
in 1919 by mathematician and gem enthusiast Marcel Tolkowsky. He
developed the round brilliant cut by calculating the ideal shape
to return and scatter light when a diamond is viewed from above.
The modern round brilliant has 57 facets (polished faces),
counting 33 on the crown (the top half), and 24 on the pavilion
(the lower half). The girdle is the thin unpolished middle. The
function of the crown is to diffuse light into various colors
and the pavilion's function to reflect light back through the
top of the diamond.
Tolkowsky defines the ideal dimensions to have:
- Table percentage (table diameter divided by overall
diameter) = 53%
- Depth percentage (Overall depth divided by the overall
diameter) = 59.3%
- Pavilion Angle (Angle between the girdle and the
pavilion) = 40.75°
- Crown Angle (Angle between the girdle and the crown) =
34.5°
- Pavilion Depth (Depth of pavilion divided by overall
diameter) = 43.1%
- Crown Depth (Depth of crown divided by crown diameter) =
16.2%
The culet is the tiny point at the bottom of the diamond.
This should be a negligible diameter, otherwise light leaks out
of the bottom. Tolkowsky's ideal dimensions did not include a
girdle. However, a thin girdle is required in reality in order
to prevent the diamond from easily chipping in the setting. A
normal girdle should be about 1%–2% of the overall diameter.
The further the diamond's characteristics are from
Tolkowsky's ideal, the less light will be reflected. However,
there is a small range in which the diamond can be considered
"ideal." Today, because of the relative importance of carat
weight in society, many diamonds are often intentionally cut
poorly to increase carat weight. There is a financial premium
for a diamond that weighs the magical 1.0 carat, so often the
girdle is made thicker or the depth is increased. Neither of the
these tactics make the diamond appear any bigger, but it also
greatly reduces the sparkle of the diamond. So a poorly cut 1.0
carat diamond may have the same diameter and appear as large as
a 0.85 carat diamond. The depth percentage is the overall
quickest indication of the quality of the cut of a round
brilliant. "Ideal" round brilliant diamonds should not have a
depth percentage greater than 62.5%. Another quick indication is
the overall diameter. Typically a round brilliant 1.0 carat
diamond should have a diameter of about 6.5 mm. Mathematically,
the diameter in millimeters of a round brilliant should
approximately equal 6.5 times the cube root of carat weight, or
11.1 times the cube root of gram weight.
Shape
Diamonds do not show all of their beauty as rough stones;
instead, they must be cut and polished to exhibit the
characteristic fire and brilliance that diamond gemstones are
known for. Diamonds are cut into a variety of shapes that are
generally designed to accentuate these features.
Diamonds which are not cut to the specifications of
Tolkowsky's round brilliant shape (or subsequent variations) are
known as "fancy cuts." Popular fancy cuts include the baguette
(from the French, resembling a loaf of bread), marquise,
princess (square outline), heart, briolette (a form of the rose
cut), and pear cuts. Generally speaking, these "fancy cuts" are
not held to the same strict standards as Tolkowsky-derived round
brilliants and there are less specific mathematical guidelines
of angles which determine a well-cut stone. Cuts are influenced
heavily by fashion: the baguette cut—which accentuates a
diamond's luster and downplays its fire—was all the rage during
the Art Deco period, whereas the princess cut—which accentuates
a diamond's fire rather than its luster—is currently gaining
popularity. The princess cut is also popular amongst diamond
cutters: of all the cuts, it wastes the least of the original
crystal. The past decades have seen the development of new
diamond cuts, often based on a modification of an existing cut.
Some of these include extra facets. These newly developed cuts
are viewed by many as more of an attempt at brand
differentiation by diamond sellers, than actual improvements to
the state of the art.
Quality
The quality of a diamond's cut is widely considered the most
important of the four Cs in determining the beauty of a diamond;
indeed, it is commonly acknowledged that a well-cut diamond can
appear to be of greater carat weight, and have clarity and color
appear to be of better grade than they actually are. The skill
with which a diamond is cut determines its ability to reflect
and refract light.
In addition to carrying the most importance to a diamond's
quality as a gemstone, the cut is also the most difficult to
quantitatively judge. A number of factors, including proportion,
symmetry, and the relative angles of various facets, are
determined by the quality of the cut and can affect the
performance of a diamond. A poorly cut diamond with facets cut
only a few degrees out of alignment can result in a poorly
performing stone. For a round brilliant cut, there is a balance
between "brilliance" and "fire." When a diamond is cut for too
much "fire," it looks like a cubic zirconia, which gives off
much more "fire" than real diamond. A well executed round
brilliant cut should reflect most light out from the tabletop
and make the diamond appear white when viewed from the top. An
inferior cut will produce a stone that appears dark at the
center and in some extreme cases the ring settings may show
through the top of the diamond as shadows.
Several different theories on the "ideal" proportions of a
diamond have been and continue to be advocated by professional
gemologists. Recently, there has been a shift away from grading
cut by the use of various angles and proportions toward
measuring the performance of a cut stone. A number of specially
modified viewers have been developed toward this end. One result
of this trend is the rise of the phrase "hearts and arrows,"
describing a characteristic pattern observable on stones
exhibiting high symmetry. Hearts and arrows diamonds trade at a
10 to 20 percent premium to otherwise comparable diamonds.
The cutting process
Main article
An uncut diamond does not show its prized optical
properties.
The process of shaping a rough diamond into a polished
gemstone is both an art and a science. The choice of cut is
often decided by the original shape of the rough stone, location
of the inclusions and flaws to be eliminated, the preservation
of the weight, popularity of certain shapes amongst consumers
and many other considerations. The round brilliant cut is
preferred when the crystal is an octahedron, as often two stones
may be cut from one such crystal. Oddly shaped crystals such as
macles are more likely to be cut in a fancy cut—that is, a cut
other than the round brilliant—which the particular crystal
shape lends itself to.
Even with modern techniques, the cutting and polishing of a
diamond crystal always results in a dramatic loss of weight;
rarely is it less than 50%. Sometimes the cutters compromise and
accept lesser proportions and symmetry in order to avoid
inclusions or to preserve the carat rating. Since the per carat
price of diamond shifts around key milestones (such as 1.00
carat), many one-carat diamonds are the result of compromising
"Cut" for "Carat." Some jewelry experts advise consumers to buy
a 0.99 carat diamond for its better price or buy a 1.10 carat
diamond for its better cut, avoiding a 1.00 carat diamond which
is more likely to be a poorly cut stone.
Cleaning
Main article Although it is not one of the four Cs,
cleanliness affects a diamond's beauty as much as any of the
four Cs. A clean diamond is more brilliant and fiery than the
same diamond when it is "dirty". Dirt or grease on the top of a
diamond reduces its luster. Water, dirt, or grease on the bottom
of a diamond interferes with the diamond's brilliance and fire.
Even a thin film absorbs some light that could have been
reflected to the person looking at the diamond. Colored dye or
smudges can affect the perceived color of a diamond.
Historically, some jewelers' stones were misgraded because of
smudges on the girdle, or dye on the culet. Current practice is
to thoroughly clean a diamond before grading its color.
Maintaining a clean diamond can sometimes be difficult, as
jewelry settings can obstruct cleaning efforts, and oils,
grease, and other hydrophobic materials adhere well to a
diamond's surface. Some jewelers provide their customers with
ammonia-based cleaning kits; ultrasonic cleaners are also
popular.
Cleanliness does not affect the diamond's market value, as
any competent jeweler will clean the diamond before offering it
for sale. However, cleanliness might reflect a diamond's
sentimental value: some jewelers have noted a correlation
between ring cleanliness and marriage quality [1].
History
Diamonds are thought to have been first recognized and mined
in India, where significant alluvial deposits of the stone could
then be found. The earliest written reference can be found in
the Sanskrit text Arthasastra, which was completed around 296
BCE, describes diamond's hardness, luster, and dispersion.
Diamonds quickly became associated with divinity, being used to
decorate religious icons, and were believed to bring good
fortune to those who carried them. Ownership was restricted
among various castes by color, with only kings being allowed to
own all colors of diamond.
In February 2005, a joint Chinese-U.S. team of archaeologists
reported the discovery of four corundum-rich stone ceremonial
burial axes originating from China's Liangzhu and Sanxingcun
cultures (4000 BCE–2500 BCE) which, because of the axes'
specular surfaces, the scientists believe were polished using
diamond powder [2] [3]. Although there are diamond deposits now
known to exist close to the burial sites, no direct evidence of
coeval diamond mining has been found: the researchers came to
this conclusion by polishing corundum using various lapidary
abrasives and modern techniques then comparing the results using
an atomic force microscope. At that scale, the surface of the
modern diamond-polished corundum closely resembled that of the
axes; however, the polishes of the latter were superior.
Diamonds were traded to both the east and west of India and
were recognized by various cultures for their gemological or
industrial uses. The Roman writer Pliny the Elder noted
diamond's ornamental uses, as well as its usefulness to
engravers because of its hardness, in his work Naturalis
Historia. In China, diamonds seem to have been used primarily
for engraving jade and drilling holes in beads. Archeological
evidence from Yemen suggests that diamonds were used as drill
tips as early as the 4th century BCE. In Europe, however,
diamonds disappeared for almost 1,000 years following the rise
of Christianity because of two effects: early Christians
rejected diamonds because of their earlier use in amulets, and
Arabic traders restricted the flow of trade between Europe and
India.
Diagram of old diamond cuts showing the evolution
from the most primitive (point cut) to the most
advanced pre-Tolkowsky cut (old European).
Until the late Middle Ages, diamonds were most prized in
their natural octahedral state, perhaps with the crystal
surfaces polished to increase luster and remove foreign
material. Around 1300, the flow of diamonds into Europe
increased via Venice's trade network, with most flowing through
the low country ports of Bruges, Antwerp, and Amsterdam. During
this time, the taboo against cutting diamonds into gem shapes,
which was established over 1,000 years earlier in the traditions
of India, ended allowing the development of diamond cutting
technology to begin in earnest. By 1375, a guild of diamond
polishers had been established at Nuremberg. Over the following
centuries, various diamond cuts were introduced which
increasingly demonstrated the fire and brilliance that makes
diamonds treasured today: the table cut, the briolette (around
1476), the rose cut (mid-16th century), and by the mid-17th
century, the Mazarin, the first brilliant cut diamond design. In
1919, Marcel Tolkowsky developed an ideal round brilliant cut
design that has set the standard for comparison of modern gems;
however, diamond cuts have continued to be refined.
The rise in popularity of diamonds as gems seems to have
paralleled increasing availability through European history. In
the 13th century, King Louis IX of France established a law that
only the king could own diamonds. However, within a century
diamonds were popular gems among the moneyed aristocratic and
merchant classes, and by at latest 1477 had begun to be used in
wedding rings. Popularity continued to rise as new cuts were
developed that enhanced the diamond's aesthetic appeal, and has
largely continued unabated to this day; diamonds have proven
popular with all classes in society as their cost has become
within reach. A number of large diamonds have become
historically significant objects, as their inclusion in various
sets of crown jewels and the purchase, sale, and sometimes theft
of notable diamonds, have sometimes become politicized.
Record-holding diamonds
The Cullinan Diamond was the largest gem-quality rough
diamond ever found (1905), at 3,106.75 carats. One of the
diamonds cut from it, Cullinan I or the Great Star of Africa,
was formerly the largest cut diamond at 530.2 carats, but now
that title has been taken by the Golden Jubilee (1985), a 545.67
carat yellow-brown diamond. The largest flawless and colorless
(grade D) diamond is the Millennium Star (1990) at 203.04
carats.
See also: List of famous diamonds
The diamond industry
A round brilliant cut diamond set in a ring.
The diamond industry can be broadly separated into two
basically distinct categories: one dealing with gem-grade
diamonds and another for industrial-grade diamonds. While a
large trade in both types of diamonds exists, the two markets
act in dramatically different ways.
Gem diamond industry
A large trade in gem-grade diamonds exists. Unlike precious
metals such as gold or platinum, gem diamonds do not trade as a
commodity: there is a substantial mark-up in the sale of
diamonds, and there is not a very active market for resale of
diamonds. One hallmark of the trade in gem-quality diamonds is
its remarkable concentration: wholesale trade and diamond
cutting is limited to a few locations (most importantly New
York, Antwerp, London, Tel Aviv, Amsterdam and increasingly
Gujarat), and a single company—De Beers—controls over half of
all trade in diamonds. They are based in Johannesburg, South
Africa and London, England.
The production and distribution of diamonds is largely
consolidated in the hands of a few key players, and concentrated
in traditional diamond trading centers (the most important being
Antwerp). The De Beers company holds a clearly dominant position
in the industry, and has done so since soon after its founding
in 1888. De Beers owns or controls a significant portion of the
world's rough diamond production facilities (mines) and
distribution channels for gem-quality diamonds. The company and
its subsidiaries own mines that produce some 40 percent of
annual world diamond production, and control distribution
channels handling nearly two thirds of all gem diamonds. At one
time it was thought over 80 percent of the world's rough
diamonds passed through the Diamond Trading Company (DTC, a
subsidiary of De Beers) in London, but presently the figure is
estimated at around 60 percent. De Beers has used its monopoly
position to establish strict price controls, and aggressively
market diamonds directly to consumers in world markets.
The De Beers diamond advertising campaign is acknowledged as
one of the most successful and innovative ones in history. N.W.
Ayer & Son, the advertising firm retained by De Beers in the
mid-20th century, succeeded in reviving the American diamond
market and opened up new markets, even in countries where no
diamond tradition had existed before. N.W. Ayer's multifaceted
marketing campaign included product placement, advertising the
diamond itself rather than the De Beers brand, and building
associations with celebrities and royalty. This coordinated
campaign has lasted decades and continues today; it is perhaps
best captured by the now-familiar slogan "a diamond is forever".
Industrial diamond industry
The market for industrial-grade diamonds operates much
differently from its gem-grade counterpart. Industrial diamonds
are valued mostly for their hardness and heat conductivity,
making many of the gemological characteristics of diamond,
including clarity and color, mostly irrelevant. This helps
explain why 80% of mined diamonds (equal to about 100 million
carats or 20,000 kg annually), unsuitable for use as gemstones
and known as bort, are destined for industrial use. In addition
to mined diamonds, synthetic diamonds found industrial
applications almost immediately after their invention in the
1950s; another 400 million carats (80,000 kg) of synthetic
diamonds are produced annually for industrial use—nearly four
times the mass of natural diamonds mined over the same period.
The dominant industrial use of diamond is in cutting,
drilling, grinding, and polishing. Most uses of diamonds in
these technologies do not require large diamonds; in fact, most
diamonds that are gem-quality except for their small size, can
find an industrial use. Diamonds are embedded in drill tips or
saw blades, or ground into a powder for use in grinding and
polishing applications. Specialized applications include use in
laboratories as containment for high pressure experiments (see
diamond anvil), high-performance bearings, and limited use in
specialized windows.
With the continuing advances being made in the production of
synthetic diamond, future applications are beginning to become
feasible. Garnering much excitement is the possible use of
diamond as a semiconductor suitable to build microchips from, or
the use of diamond as a heat sink in electronics. Significant
research efforts in Japan, Europe, and the United States are
under way to capitalize on the potential offered by diamond's
unique material properties, combined with increased quality and
quantity of supply starting to become available from synthetic
diamond manufacturers.
Diamond supply chain
See also: List of diamond mines
The diamond supply chain is controlled by a limited number of
powerful businesses, and is also highly concentrated in a small
number of locations around the world. In fact, the amount of
power which De Beers has consolidated historically prevented it
from direct trade with the United States, as its trade practices
led to an indictment for violating antitrust regulations (the
case was settled in 2004). The concentration of power only
loosens at the retail level, where diamonds are sold by a
limited number of distributors, known as sightholders, to
jewelers around the world.
Alluvial mining by traditional methods continues,
as seen here in Sierra Leone.
Sources
Historically diamonds were known to be found only in alluvial
deposits in southern India; India led the world in diamond
production from the time of their discovery in approximately the
9th century BCE to the mid-18th century CE, but the commercial
potential of these sources has been exhausted. The first
non-Indian diamond source was found in Brazil in 1725. Today,
most commercially viable diamond deposits are in Africa, notably
in South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, the Republic of the Congo,
Angola and Sierra Leone. There are also commercial deposits
being actively mined in the Northwest Territories of Canada,
Siberia (mostly in Yakutia territory, for example Mir pipe and
Udachnaya Pipe), Brazil, and in Northern and Western Australia.
Diamond prospectors continue to search the globe for
diamond-bearing kimberlite and lamproite pipes.
In some of the more politically unstable central African and
west African countries, revolutionary groups have taken control
of diamond mines, using proceeds from diamond sales to finance
their operations. Diamonds sold through this process are known
as conflict diamonds or blood diamonds. In response to public
concerns that their diamond purchases were contributing to war
and human rights abuses in central Africa and west Africa, the
diamond industry and diamond-trading nations introduced the
Kimberley Process in 2002, which is aimed at ensuring that
conflict diamonds do not become intermixed with the diamonds not
controlled by such rebel groups. The Kimberley Process provides
documentation and certification of diamond exports from
producing countries to ensure that the proceeds of sale are not
being used to fund criminal or revolutionary activities.
Although the Kimberly Process has been somewhat successful in
limiting the number of conflict diamonds entering the market,
conflict diamonds smuggled to market continue to persist to some
degree.
Currently, gem production totals nearly 30 million carats
(6,000 kg) of cut and polished stones annually, and over 100
million carats (20,000 kg) of diamonds are sold for industrial
use each year. In 2003, this constituted total production of
nearly US$9 billion in value.
Distribution
The Diamond Trading Company, or DTC, is a subsidiary of De
Beers and markets rough diamonds produced both by De Beers mines
and other mines from which it purchases rough diamond
production; in whole, about two thirds of all rough diamonds
pass through the company. DTC performs sophisticated sorting of
rough diamonds into over 16,000 categories, and then sells bulk
lots of rough diamonds to a limited number of sightholders a few
times a year.
Once purchased by sightholders, diamonds are cut and polished
in preparation for sale as gemstones. The cutting and polishing
of rough diamonds is a specialized skill that is concentrated in
a limited number of locations worldwide. Traditional diamond
cutting centers are Antwerp, Amsterdam, Johannesburg, New York,
and Tel Aviv. Recently, diamond cutting centers have been
established in China, India, and Thailand. Cutting centers with
lower costs of labor, notably Surat in Gujarat, India, handle a
larger number of smaller carat diamonds, while smaller
quantities of larger or more valuable diamonds are more likely
to be handled in Europe or North America. Demonstrating this,
India produces 90% of all cut and polished diamonds by number,
but only 55% by value. The recent expansion of this industry in
India, employing low cost labor, has allowed smaller diamonds to
be prepared as gems than was previously economically feasible.
Diamonds which have been prepared as gemstones are sold on
diamond exchanges called bourses. There are 24 registered
diamond bourses. This is the final tightly controlled step in
the diamond supply chain; wholesalers and even retailers are
able to buy relatively small lots of diamonds at the bourses,
after which they are prepared for final sale to the consumer.
Diamonds can be sold already set in jewelry, or as is
increasingly popular, sold unset ("loose"). According to the Rio
Tinto Group, in 2002 the diamonds produced and released to the
market were valued at US$9 billion as rough diamonds, US$14
billion after being cut and polished, US$28 billion in wholesale
diamond jewelry, and retail sales of US$57 billion. [4]
Synthetics, simulants, and enhancements
Main article The gemological and industrial uses of diamond
have created a large demand for raw stones. A portion of this
demand is now being met by synthetic diamonds, man-made diamonds
which have similar properties to natural diamonds. This process
has historically produced industrial-grade diamonds, but
synthetic diamond producers have recently begun to penetrate the
gem diamond market. Diamonds have been manufactured
synthetically for over fifty years.
A diamond's gem quality, which is not as dependent on
material properties as industrial applications, has invited both
imitation and the invention of procedures to enhance the
gemological properties of natural diamonds. Materials which have
similar gemological characteristics to diamond but are not real
mined or synthetic diamond are known as diamond simulants. The
most familiar diamond simulant to most consumers is cubic
zirconia (commonly abbreviated as CZ); recently moissanite has
also gained cachet as a popular diamond simulant. Both CZ and
moissanite are synthetically produced for use as a diamond
simulant. Diamond enhancements are specific treatments,
performed on natural diamonds (usually those already cut and
polished into a gem), which are designed to better the
gemological characteristics of the stone in one or more ways.
These include laser drilling to remove inclusions, application
of sealants to fill cracks, treatments to improve a white
diamond's color grade, and treatments to give fancy color to a
white diamond.
Currently, trained gemologists with appropriate equipment are
able to distinguish natural diamonds from all synthetic and
simulant diamonds, and identify all enhanced natural diamonds.
The established natural diamond industry has a vested interest
in maintaining the distinction between natural diamonds and
other diamonds, and has made significant investments toward that
end. However, synthetic diamonds may one day be
indistinguishable from natural diamonds, and new techniques for
simulants (such as coating them with a very thin diamond-like
layer of carbon) are making it harder to easily distinguish
between simulants and real diamonds.
Symbolism
Mary of Burgundy is the first known recipient of a
diamond engagement ring, in 1477.
Because of their extraordinary physical properties, diamonds
have been used symbolically since near the time of their first
discovery. Perhaps the earliest symbolic use of diamonds was as
the eyes of Hindu devotional statues. The diamonds themselves
were thought to be endowments from the gods and were therefore
cherished. The point at which diamonds began to be associated
with divinity is not known, but early texts indicate that it was
recognized in India since at least 400 BCE. It is said the
Greeks believed diamonds were tears of the gods; the Romans
believed they were splinters of fallen stars. Many long dead
cultures have sought to explain diamond's superlative properties
through divine or mystical affiliations.
In Tibetan Buddhism, also known as Vajrayana (Diamond
Vehicle), diamonds are an important symbol, and the Diamond
Sutra is one of the most popular texts.
In Western culture, diamonds are the traditional emblem of
fearlessness and virtue, but have also often associated with
power, wealth, crime and misfortune. Today, diamonds are used to
symbolize eternity and love, being often seen adorning
engagement rings and sometimes wedding rings as well. The
popularity of this modern tradition can be traced directly to
the marketing campaigns of De Beers, starting in 1938. The
diamond engagement ring is, however, not an original invention
of De Beers. It can be traced to the marriage of Maximilian I
(then Archduke of Austria) to Mary of Burgundy in 1477. Other
early examples of betrothal jewels incorporating diamonds
include the Bridal Crown of Blanche (ca. 1370–80) and the
Heftlein brooch of Vienna (ca. 1430–40), a pictorial piece
depicting a wedding couple. Inaccessibility of diamonds to the
vast majority of the population limited the popularity of
diamonds as betrothal jewels during this period.
Diamonds were also a symbol of gay community in the 1950s.
The Mattachine Society, one of the first and the foremost gay
rights groups in the United States, used so-called harlequin
diamonds (four smaller diamonds arranged in a pattern to form
one larger diamond) as their emblem.
The LifeGem company further taps modern symbolism by offering
to synthetically convert the carbonized remains of people or
pets into "memorial diamonds". However, many people feel very
uncomfortable at the thought of wearing the carbonized remains
of people as jewelry.
The diamond is the birthstone for people born in the month of
April, and is also used as the symbol of a sixty-year
anniversary, such as a Diamond Jubilee (see hierarchy of
precious substances).
Diamonds are a common focus of fiction. Notable pieces of
fiction include Ian Fleming's Diamonds Are Forever (1956),
Arthur C. Clarke's 2061: Odyssey Three (1988) and Neal
Stephenson's The Diamond Age (1995). In addition, diamonds are
the subject of various myths and legends.
External links
Wikimedia Commons has media related to:
- 3D Interactive Molecular Visualization of Diamond at
WikiMol (requires Macromedia Flash)
- Elements vol.1 no.2 (March 2005): Diamonds (.pdf file)
- Gemological Institute of America
- Interactive structure of bulk diamond (Java applet).
- PBS Nature: Diamonds
- Russian Gemological Server
- Smithsonian's exhibit of fancy color diamonds
- Synthetic CVD diamond coatings at the Fraunhofer
Institute for Surface Engineering and Thin Films
References
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Diamonds". Retrieved March 9, 2005.
- Anderson, Arthur & Judith. "Fancy Color Diamonds".
Retrieved September 12, 2005.
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Cutters International. Retrieved April 10, 2005.
- David, Joshua (September 2003). "The New Diamond Age".
Wired, issue 11.09.
- De Beers Group. "De Beers Group". Retrieved March 14,
2005.
- Epstein, Edward Jay (February 1982). "Have You Ever
Tried To Sell a Diamond?" (subscription required). The
Atlantic Monthly.
- Epstein, Edward Jay (1982). "THE DIAMOND INVENTION"
(Complete book, includes "Chapter 20: Have you ever tried to
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Retrieved March 10, 2005.
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Reflection and Refraction of Light in a Diamond. London: E.
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growth".Retrieved Nov 01,2005.
- Carnegie Institution."Very Large Produced Very Fast
Diamond".Retrieved Nov 01,2005.
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